Waltzing Matilda Makes Key West

October 17, 2010

Nathan pulled into the harbor at Key West this afternoon, although he landed nearby Felmming Key, the next inhabited key to the east. I think the $80 per month landing fee at Key West discouraged him (“I’ve heard they nickel-and-dime you down here,” he said).
Tonight he told of sailing to the Keys from Marco Island, Florida, where he spent several nights waiting out the weather. Friday night he went to a thrift store next to a classy Italian restaurant. Looking at the menu posted outside the restaurant he saw that no dish on the menu was listed at less than $50. He was behind the thrift store to do some dumpster diving when the Italian restaurant closed and someone threw away the items from the make table. Nathan went over and had “gourmet cheese, chicken noodles and bread, all hot, just out of the kitchen. Considering their prices I probably had a $200 meal.”
Saturday he motored out of Marcos into the Gulf of Mexico. He hoisted sail, but there was no wind to speak of – it took him ten hours to go just 7 miles (“Really, really annoying”). Wind picked up at sunset and “I did not go to sleep. I’ve been to college – I’ve pulled all nighters – so I sailed all night long. I made 68 miles in ten hours of darkness.”
His overnight sailing was amazing, he said. “The water is crystal clear and loaded with phosphorus. After the moon sets at 3 a.m. it’s completely dark. My pupils are probably huge – I can see everything. In fact, when the moon was up I didn’t look at it so that could keep my night vision. Between 3 a.m and 6 a.m. I see thirty-two shooting stars. I’m now far enough south that I am hitting tropical waters. The color is amazing. There are 3- to 5-foot waves, the sea is glowing green, the sky is glowing blue.
In the distance, he could see light. He thinks they were the lights of Miami, which, depending on where he was between Marcos Island and Key West, were 80 to perhaps 100 miles away.
“I navigated all night by the north star. I went below to make a sandwich and when I came back up I noticed there was something wrong with the north star. It didn’t appear to be quite right. I’m looking at it, trying to figure out what’s wrong. Then he turned on his landing lights!”
Wrong north star!
“Sunrise,” Nathan said, “Was amazing. There was a flame-shaped – not grey, not blue, not green – flame-shaped discoloration of the sky. I had been awake long enough to where everything was surreal. I’m in 65 feet of water with no land in sight and there is an aqua-marine blue sea.”
Coming into Key West harbor the wind was good. “I came through the channel so fast even though I had the current against me, the wind was so strong I dipped my head sail in the water. I was making 6 and ½ knots, which is as fast as my boat will go.”
Arriving in the Keys, Nathan docked next to the boat of a friend of some friends (Rick and Cathy Morrell – there’s a post about them on Nathan’s March 7 blog).
In sight are two docked cruise ships: a 300-foot Disney ship and a 400-foot Carnival ship.
Calling it a day, Nathan said “I’m going to sleep in and work on the boat tomorrow.” Having pulled an all nighter and having a grand sailing trip “I’m trying to wind down.”
--Posted by Official Correspondent Dad Landry